Forget makeup mysteries! This guide is your BFF for mastering makeup, no matter your face shape or features.
We’ll ditch the confusing terms and break it down step-by-step. From finding your perfect brow game to rocking a killer smoky eye, you’ll be a makeup pro in no time.
So, whether your face is a round masterpiece or a diamond in the rough, get ready to create stunning looks that highlight your natural beauty. Let’s do this!
Also read: How to Contour & Highlight in 3 min? Every Face Shape Guide
How to Draw Eyebrows?
Eyebrow Shapes for Different Face Shapes:
1. Long Face
Long faces are suitable for “flat and thick eyebrows,” which will make the face appear shorter. The eyebrows for long faces can be slightly thicker to shorten the length of the face and create a more balanced look visually. For short faces, the eyebrows can be slightly thinner.
2. Oval Face
Soft eyebrow shapes will not disrupt the natural beauty of an oval face shape. Girls with oval faces can basically suit any eyebrow shape.
3. Square Face
Raise the eyebrow peak to make the face look longer and curved. Square faces have rough facial lines, so the eyebrows should also be consistent. Therefore, straight eyebrows are not suitable. There must be a slightly curved eyebrow shape with a sense of outline.
4. Round Face
Raise the eyebrow peak to make the face look longer. Round faces, like square faces, are not suitable for straight eyebrows. They are suitable for curved eyebrows with a sense of outline to match the facial outline.
5. Diamond Face
The eyebrows should be soft, not showing the eyebrow peak, and have a slight curvature. The lines of the diamond face are too rigid, and the cheekbones are prominent.
If you also draw rigid eyebrows, it will strengthen the sharpness of the face. Neither too flat nor too curved eyebrows are suitable. There should be a just-right curvature, not too soft or too hard.
6. Heart-Shaped Face
The eyebrow shape is soft, without obvious corners. Heart-shaped faces are not suitable for straight eyebrows or very hard eyebrows. They are suitable for eyebrows with soft and smooth lines, which is similar to the eyebrows of diamond-shaped faces.
How to Determine Eyebrow Length?
- Measure the Starting Point: Use a pencil or a straight object to align with the side of your nose. The point where the object intersects with your eyebrow marks the starting point.
- Find the Arch: Position the object diagonally from the side of your nose to the center of your iris. This indicates where the highest point of your arch should be.
- Determine the End: Extend the object to the outer corner of your eye. Where it intersects with your eyebrow is where it should end. The length of the eyebrow tail is found when there is no eye makeup without eyeliner.
How to Apply Blush?
Long Face
Long faces need to blush horizontally to make the face wider and shorter. You can also draw an oval blush in the middle.
Square Face, Round Face
Suitable for these two face shapes is oval blush.
The conventional blush should not be lower than the position of the nose line, the upper end of the outermost contour should not be lower than the outermost contour of the eyeshadow, and the middle position should be in front of the pupil 1/3.
For a wider face like the model in the picture, apply blush diagonally from the cheekbones. This area serves as both a shadow area and a blush area.
You can also apply a large oval blush and overlap it with a shadow. To create the shadow, apply it diagonally from the cheekbones towards the outer contours.
If you don’t want to use contouring to slim down your face, you can directly use blush as a contour. Apply it diagonally, and avoid applying blush in the usual blush area.
Oval Face, Heart-Shaped Face
Very suitable for round blush. The conventional blush should not be lower than the position of the nose line, the outermost contour should not be lower than the outermost contour of the eyeshadow, and the middle position should be in front of the pupil 1/3.
Square faces and round faces can also apply this kind of round blush, but they should apply shadow on the prominent parts on the side.
How to Draw Eyeliner？
Facial Proportions: the Three Courts and Five Eyes Standard
The three courts and five eyes are the general standard ratio of the length and width of the human face. If it does not conform to this ratio, it will be far from the ideal face shape. The simplest way to divide it is to divide the head into three equal parts vertically and the width of the head into five equal parts horizontally.
- Three Courts: Refers to the ratio of the length of the face. From the hairline on the forehead to the eyebrow bone, from the eyebrow bone to the base of the nose, and from the base of the nose to the chin, each accounts for 1/3 of the length of the face.
- Five Eyes: Refers to the ratio of the width of the face, with the length of the eye shape as the unit, and the width of the face is divided into five equal parts. From the hairline on the left to the hairline on the right, it is five eye shapes.
Use the Three Courts and Five Eyes Standard to Draw Eyeliner
- Look at the distance between the eyes: wide, the eyeliner is suitable for drawing forward; if the distance between the eyes is close, it is suitable for drawing eyeliner backwards.
- Look at the eyelids: The distance between the eyebrows and eyelids. If it is wider, the eyebrows are suitable for drawing a little lower, and the eyeshadow position can be a little higher; if the eyelid distance is narrow, the eyeshadow area should not be too large.
- Look at the eyeline: Some people have high eyelines, and some people have low eyelines, which is related to the shape of the eyeshadow drawn.
3 Beautiful Eye Shapes
Ultimately, makeup should be used to create the following three eye shapes:
- Almond Eyes: Wide eye cracks, larger eyes, rounded corners, not sharp. They give others a feeling of innocence, cuteness, cleanliness, and cuteness. They make you look very young, but not very fashionable.
- Peach Blossom Eyes (Willow Eyes): Upturned eyeline, large curvature of the eyelid, and sharp inner corners. Peach blossom eyes are very attractive to the opposite sex.
- Danfeng Eyes (Phoenix Eyes): Long and upturned eyeline, downward inner corners, outer corners higher than inner corners, slender eye shape, with a classical temperament.
There are other eye shapes like triangular eyes, goldfish eyes, and hooded eyes. Ultimately, makeup should be used to create one of the three shapes above. You should also consider which eye shape you are closest to.
For example, hooded eyes can be modified into phoenix eyes, and almond eyes can be modified into willow eyes for a more mature look.
How to Apply Eyeliner for Eyes with Special Features?
- Monolid Eyelid
Apply a thicker eyeliner. Open your eyes and make sure you can’t see the eyeliner. Blend the eyeliner for a smoky effect. This is a great technique for Subtle smoky eye makeup.
- Double Eyelid
Don’t apply thick eyeliner directly on the lash line. Apply inner eyeliner on the first 2/3 of the lash line, and then outer eyeliner on the last 1/3.
- Drooping Eyes
Apply inner eyeliner only. Avoid applying outer eyeliner as it can further droop the eye. Thicken the eyeliner towards the end to create a lifting effect.
How to Draw Eyeshadow？
Color Matching
Use colors of the same hue but with different lightness and saturation together.
Subtle smoky eye shadow mainly has the effect of lengthening and enlarging the eyes, making the eyes deeper, suitable for everyone, especially suitable for girls with double eyelids, puffy eyes, and single eyelids.
The larger the smoky area (thickness of the eyeliner and the range of the eyeshadow), the greater the effect of enlarging the eyes. The length of the eyeliner has the effect of lengthening the eyes.
Four colors used in smoky makeup:
- Base color: Find the lightest matte color in the eyeshadow palette and apply it to a large area in the sunken part of the eye socket.
- Transition color: The second brightest color in the eyeshadow palette, starting from the lash line, apply it below the eye socket and blend a little bit, applying a smaller area than the base color.
- Eyeliner color: The darkest color, applied to the very base of the lash line.
- Highlighting color: A relatively light and shiny color called highlighting color, which can be applied starting from the middle of the eyeball.
(The eyeshadow area is from the head of the eye to the position of the eyeliner.)
Single Color Method
Use only one color, apply it flat, and then use a darker color in the same color family along the lash line to apply again. This is the fastest, most efficient, and good-looking way to use eyeshadow for our daily light makeup.
A slightly darker color refers to a color in the same eyeshadow palette with the same hue, but with different lightness and saturation.
Lengthening the Eyeline Technique:
Apply from the end of the eye towards the corner. If your face is wide and has a lot of blank space on the face, you not only need to lengthen the eyeliner but also lengthen the eyebrows.
This method is suitable for everyone, especially for people with wide faces. It can lengthen the eyeline and adjust the eye ratio, making it closer to the “three courts and five eyes” standard.
Three-Segment Method
The color of the head and tail of the eye is darker, and the center of the eyeball is brightened. Suitable for everyone, especially for people with wide eyes and wide faces.
It can close the eye distance, lengthen the corners of the eyes, and make the facial features closer to the “three courts and five eyes” standard.
How to Apply Eyeshadow for Eyes with Special Features?
- Drooping Eyes (eyeline drooping downwards, eyeline lower than eye head)
- Upper Eyelid: Don’t apply eyeshadow on the front, focus on the back eyeshadow.
- Lower Eyelid: use less eyeshadow towards the outer corner. Instead, focus on applying a subtle amount of eyeshadow and eyeliner towards the inner corner. To create balance, intensify the eyeshadow towards the inner corner, visually pressing down on the eye’s head while lifting the tail, achieving a more balanced look overall.
- Upturned Eyes
- Try not to apply too much eyeshadow to the front section of the lower eyelid. This will further emphasize the upturned shape.
Summary of Important Points
- Wait for skincare products to fully absorb before applying makeup to minimize smudging.
- Use colored concealer mainly to correct uneven skin tone.
- Avoid applying a heavy layer of foundation on the cheeks. Apply foundation from the center of the face outwards, blending the edges naturally.
- Set your makeup with powder first, then use setting spray.
Final Words
The makeup steps above may seem complicated, but they are actually not difficult to do in practice.
If you are a beginner, it is impossible to remember all the details in this article at once. What you need to do is take the first step, gather all the necessary makeup tools, follow the steps and pictures I’ve broken down, look in the mirror, and start practicing.
In the process of practice, gradually master the techniques, practice a few more times, and all the processes can be memorized! Start with the simplest makeup look. Once you’re comfortable, you can create a fresh and vibrant everyday look in just 10-15 minutes every morning, making your whole day feel beautiful.
I will share more advanced makeup tutorials in the future, so remember to subscribe! I look forward to you joining me.
Further Reading:
Chinese Retro Makeup: 6 Steps Tutorial with Images
French Makeup: 5 Steps Tutorial with Images
Japanese & Korean Makeup: 6 Steps Tutorial with Images
How to Choose the Best Hairstyle for Your Face Shape?
Hair Wash Mistakes You’re Making (Everyone Does!) & Hair Care Secrets
